Fire Prevention In Barns, Part 3

This week’s continuation of Fire Safety in Barns focuses on the anatomy of a barn fire and how to prevent fires.

Anatomy Of A Fire

 For there to be fire, there needs to be 3 things to burn: an ignition source (spark or intense heat), a fuel source (combustible material) and oxygen. The fuel source will smolder, sometimes for hours, based upon the availability of oxygen, the location of combustibles and the fuel.

 Tests in a 12 x 12 stall with two bales of fresh straw, took only 1 minute for fire to create an air temperature of 374 degrees Fahrenheit, 15 feet above the floor. (UL and Union Carbide’s 1950’s research.)

 Straw bedding reaches a burning temperature of nearly 300 degrees Fahrenheit in less than 5 minutes, during which it will burn an area that is 10 feet in diameter and develop as much heat and burn at the same rate as gasoline. It is not possible to survive more than short exposure to 150 degrees Fahrenheit and the tissues of the lungs will be destroyed. Therefore, animals must be rescued within 30 seconds for no injury. After one minute, the lungs are seared and by 3 minutes, the animal or human is dead. (NFPA 150 1993 version.)

With flames, more heat is being produced and the fire grows exponentially. Temperatures will reach 1800 degrees at the ceiling level within minutes and 3-5 minutes to approach the flash point, where all combustibles within that space will ignite. In most barns, this is usually the loft, where hay and bedding may be stored, which further fuels the fire. This is why limiting the combustible fuels (bedding, hay, etc.) is important in barns.

Toxins, mainly carbon monoxide and hydrogen cyanide (known as the Toxic Twins) will be released by the process of burning and will do severe lung damage. In 2005, a fire in Fair Hill, Maryland, claimed 24 horses, and all were deemed to have died from smoke inhalation. Fire crew reported no sounds from horses when they arrived, meaning they were already dead, despite no flames. A similar fire started in electrical equipment in Connecticut in 2018, killing more than 18 horses, with no flames present.

 Once flames appear, the heat and fire increases. This is why it is important to have a properly designed barn and suppression systems in place, which will hopefully slow the spread of flames.

Prevention

There are several steps which can be taken, in both new builds and existing barns, which will go a long way in preventing fires.

The first preventative measure should be to compartmentalize all combustible items, by separating each type, such as those which are farm equipment, manure, chemicals, gas, hay, beddings, etc. Fire walls and fire doors can be utilized for separating areas in which to store such items, as well as separating living spaces in barns.

Ideally, a second building should be utilized for storage of such items. Hay and bedding should be contained to a secondary building, away from anything which could be considered combustible...it goes without saying, but never store pesticides, fuel, herbicides, etc, in the same area as hay. Farm equipment and fuel should also be in a separate building and manure in a compost pile should never be located near a barn. Manure, hay and bedding are all extremely combustible and ignition sources.

Many older barns have haylofts, which should never be used to store hay or bedding. Haylofts increase the fuel loading and increases the speed of fire. Ideally, hay should be stored in a secondary building, and regardless of where it is stored, barn owners should utilize a fire wall, detection and suppression systems and an alarm. Keep the majority of hay in the secondary building and bring in small amounts at a time to the main barn, typically just enough bales to use each day. It should be taken seriously to compartmentalize and properly store hay.

When storing hay, take care to stack properly, with air space between rows and stacks of bales. Keep in mind that green hay is highly combustible, as is recently baled hay, which may have a high humidity content. A probe will indicate the internal temperature of hay: below 130 degrees will present no issues. Hay that shows temperatures between 130 and 140 degrees should be monitored: hay at 150 degrees is at risk of fire and should be moved around to circulate and monitored. Hay measuring 175-190 degrees is in imminent danger of fire; bales should not be moved and the fire department should be notified. With temperatures above 200 degrees, the situation is very critical. The fire department should be called, water should be applied before moving hay and when moving the hay, have a hose on stand-by. Thermal imaging cameras can be utilized to trace any smoldering hay.

And it bears repeating: smoking should never be allowed in or near a barn! It is just not worth the risk! This also goes for burning brush near a barn or welding where there is combustible material.

It is imperative to understand that ventilation, suppression and compartmentalization are the key to slowing down the spread of fire and allows time for first responders to remove horses.

KEY PREVENTION STEPS:

• No smoking around the barn!

• Keep flammables and machinery out of the barn. This includes tractors, side by sides, gas, generators, bbq’s and welding equipment.

• Keep debris off the roof.

• Keep vegetation away from barn. You should maintain a 40-50 foot firebreak around your property.

• Remove cobwebs. Not only are they unsightly, but cobwebs are fire hazards, as are oily rags, dust and trash lying around.

•  If possible, store hay and bedding in a separate building. Stack hay loosely and make sure it is properly cured and dry. Never store chemicals, pesticides, etc, near hay.

• Use only UL listed appliances and outdoor extension cords.

• Don’t leave extension cords exposed to horses.

• While on the subject of cords: don’t run them across the floors, where a shod horse can step on one. If you have a cord that is patched with electrical tape, toss it. The life of your horse is worth more than the $15 to replace it.

• Don’t set heavy objects on cords, which can generate heat.

• Extension cords should never be coiled up if they are too long, as they will generate heat.

• Don’t refuel equipment in the barn.

• Don’t allow birds to build nests in lights.

•  If you have dryers in the barn, make sure they are clean of lint. 

• Space heaters in tack rooms can dry out leather and blankets and cause a fire to ignite.

• Open outlet boxes and remove dust and cobwebs.

• Water bucket heaters should be in good working order, never left unattended and when not in use, care should be taken that they are completely cool when stored.

• Fire extinguishers! Have them at both ends of the barn and one every 50’ and within ready access. Make sure you know how to use one and that they are tested monthly. Put extinguishers in tack room, lounge, feed room and hay room. Make sure to check them monthly and be sure everyone knows how to use one.

• Water bucket heaters should be in good working order, never left unattended.

• Install smoke alarms, flame detectors and carbon monoxide alarms.

•  If possible, install a fire sprinkler.

• Have hoses outside the barn.

•  Is your wiring up to date and safe from critters chewing on it? Make sure all wiring is enclosed in metal conduit and to code. Replace any frayed wires.

• Is the master switch to the power readily accessible outside the barn?

• Install lightning rods.

• Do not use electrical heaters in the barn!

• Do not use Lasko or other box fans. They are not designed for barn use! Use only heavy duty metal fans with enclosed motors and have them installed by a certified electrician.

• Hay rolls!  Just as baled hay sitting in a barn can combust, so can a hay roll. Sitting outside and exposed to rain can cause heat to build up. Pull layers back after a rain and check for heat.

• Stable the most valuable, oldest, weakest or most likely to panic horses closest to the exits.

• Consider installing fire curtains in the roof trusses, which will slow the transfer of super-heated air and smoke.

• Don't forget shavings! Bagged shavings as well as bulk piles are combustible. They should be stored safely.

• Manure piles also can "cook". Piles should be far away from the barn and spread thin. Manure compost bins should not be close to structures.

• Scan your barn. Do you have rags, assorted cans, fertilizer, pesticides, gas and other contaminates lying around?

• Invite your local fire department to perform and assessment of your facility.

•  Write down your plan and practice it monthly. Include all employees and boarders. Make changes as needed.

•  Use the most non-combustible materials in barn construction.

•  If applying varnish, make sure it is flame retardant.

• Tack rooms, living quarters and lounges should be brought up to the Life-Safety code level.

•  Install additional exits. Install doors on the back of each stall.

• Electricians should inspect your barn from time to time and make any upgrades if necessary.

• Do not park trailers or vehicles near the barn.

• Unplug appliances when no one is around.

• Halter and leads should always be outside of horses stall. Additionally, store spare halter and leads in a separate building, with easy access.

• Hold drills to help horses deal with noise, flashing lights and smoke.

•  Leave flashlights in secondary building where accessible as the fire department will shut off the power.

• Don’t leave aerosol cans in the sun as they can build up heat and explode and start a fire.

•  Swimming pools, ponds, hydrants and hose bibs should be unobstructed, so the fire department is able to utilize them as water sources.

•  Latches should be in good working order. Rescue personnel will be wearing heavy gloves, so latches should be able to be quickly opened.

•  Barns with long interior aisles should mark stalls with glow in the dark or reflective lettering.

•  A list of emergency contacts should be posted in the barn and secondary buildings.

• Thank you for being patient and reading these long, but very important blogs. Next week, I conclude with Emergency Planning and What To Do In Case Of A Barn Fire.

  Again, many thanks to Dr. Rebecca Husted for lending her expertise on this subject matter.

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